Marta Summer Shirt Pattern by Tanja Koenigs

The MARTA Summer Shirt is a short mohair blouse with a boat neckline. It is worked from the top, in one piece, and can be knitted sleeveless, or with short or ¾ sleeves. All hems are finished with an i-cord.

You will work increases at the shoulder yokes for the front and back pieces, and short rows to shape the front and back necklines. After the shoulder yoke, you’ll separate the work into front and back pieces, which you will work separately with decreases. You will join back and front again under the armholes to work the body in the round.

You will pick up stitches around the armhole to work a short or ¾ sleeve, in the round, or to cast off immediately with the i-cord if you are working a sleeveless version.

These detailed pattern instructions contain technical sketches describing the position the turning stitches for the short rows at front and back, a detailed sketch of the model with all measures and dimensions, as well as a blank sketch for your notes and conversions.

Fit 2 of 5 (Positive Ease: between 20-24 cm)
Difficulty level 3 of 5 (top-down, short rows, increases at the shoulder yoke)

SIZES
XS (32/34) S (36/38) M (40/42) L (44/46) XL (48/50) XXL (52)
All instructions in the sketch (Appendix 1) and throughout the pattern written for sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL)
Sizes are based on the following bust measurements 74-82 (82-90) 90-98 (98-107) 107-119 (119-131) cm

MEASUREMENTS OF THE FINISHED PIECE:
Bust circumference: 100 (106) 114 (126) 134 (146) with a 20 – 24 cm positive ease
Sleeve circumference 44.5 (47.5) 49 (51) 54 (58.5) with a 18.5 – 20 cm positive ease
Neckline width 31.5 (31.5) 32 (32.5) 32.5 (33) cm
Single width of the body 50 (53) 57 (63) 67 (73) cm
Single width of the sleeves 21.5 (23) 24 (25) 26 (28.5) cm
Sleeve length (without the i-cord) 9.5 cm
Total length (from the shoulder, without the i-cord) 51 (53.5) 56 (59) 61 (65.5) cm

The model in the photo is 164 cm tall and wears a size XS, for a bust circumference of 85 cm.

PATTERN
The blouse is knit in stocking stitch. In back and forth: knit on right side rows, purl on wrong side rows. In the round: knit on every round.

KNITTING GAUGE
For an even stitch pattern, I use a smaller needle size for the purl rows when working back and forth:
with 2 threads, a 7 mm needle for the knit rows and a 6.5 mm for the purl rows, and a 7 mm needle when working in the round:
10 x 10 cm = 13 sts x 18 rows

YARN
Silkhair from Lana Grossa (70 % Mohair (Superkid), 30 % Silk approx. 210 m/25 g)
Color: 1 thread of Rose (085) and 1 thread of Pale Lilac (087)
The converted weight of the yarn per 1 meter, using 2 threads, is: 0,24 g/m

AMOUNTS REQUIRED
The total yarn requirements for sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (XXL) is are:
Variant 1 (sleeveless)
4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (6) skeins
100 (100) 125 (125) 150 (150) g
840 (840) 1050 (1050) 1260 (1260) m
Variant 2 (short sleeves)
4 (5) 5 (6) 6 (7) skeins
100 (125) 125 (150) 150 (175) g
840 (1050) 1050 (1260) 1260 (1470) m
Variant 3 (3/4 sleeves)
5 (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) skeins
125 (150) 150 (175) 175 (200) g
1050 (1260) 1260 (1470) 1470 (1680) m

NEEDLES
A 6 mm circular needle for the temporary cast-on, the 1st row and the short rows at the beginning of the neckline
Circular needles for the basic stockinette stitch pattern:
Short (10 cm) needle points 5, 6 and 7 mm, with a 20-35 cm long cable
Long (13 cm) needle tips 6.5 and 7 mm, with a 80-100 cm long cable
A 5 mm needle for the i-cord

NOTIONS
8 large stitch markers, suitable for 6- and 7-mm needles:

• 4 markers in color 1 – to mark increases shoulder yoke
• 4 markers in color 2 – to mark the shoulder stitches 2 locking stitch markers to hook to a stitch A 4 – 5 mm crochet hook for the temporary cast-on A tapestry needle, and scrap yarn for temporary cast-on Scrap yarn or extra cables to leave stitches on hold

KNITTING TECHNIQUES
Provisional cast-on with a crochet hook
Knit and purl stitches

Increases inclined to the left and to the right in right and wrong side rows, when working back and forth
Decreases inclined to the right
German Short Rows
Picking up stitches from the knit (for the sleeves)
Binding off with an i-cord